St James N8

01-12-2008
Priya MyVillage  6532 

Crouch End, in its superfluous flair has seen its fair share of Maclaren-buggy rallies, scores of sprightly glamorama youngsters and a metrosexual influx of Beckham-obsess quiffs. So with a nouvelle eatery on the block, named St James - could this restaurant befit the la-di-da masses?

Ritzy in settings, St James graces diners with a Harrod’s attitude. Distinctively white in appearance its staunch interior is at first blunt, but with a few flickering tea lights it soon warms up.

Food-wise, aphrodisiac foodies would revel in their cuisine, Pan fried Calves Liver, Lamb Rissole and Roast Loin of Venison cements their eclectic menu. Finally, for us, it’s the contemporary strength of the Smoked Salmon Blinis with Winter Salad and Saute Potato and Onion Gnocchi starters which dominates our hit list. With oyster mushrooms drenched in salivating sauce and salmon ticklish on the palate, we stall no longer for our mains.

Our Seared Halibut with a Crispy Potato Crust and Sweet Pea and Ricotta Tortellini is an adventurous option. The Halibut sidelined with pea puree peppered with cherry tomatoes enriched our dish, whereas the Tortellini was a veggie glory - bouts of flavoursome greens swimming succulently in mushroom broth. Though little space remained for our desserts, we nevertheless soldiered on…our Tiramasu soon arrived and was far from enticing – gloppy and fluffy in cream. Luckily, their Toblerone cheesecake came to the rescue - a heavenly saviour.

No doubt simplicity and finesse depicts St James and for those overwrought in elegance this will be one venue to bookmark…

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